Area: Nelson Lakes National Park
Duration: 6 nights/7 days
Day 1 - D'Urville Hut to Tiraumea Hut
We had an early 6.00am departure from Ashburton, Mid Canterbury and drove all the way to Lake Rotoroa. We had booked the Lake Rotoroa Water Taxi for 1.30pm, so we had plenty of time to stretch the legs and have lunch.
The water taxi takes about 20 to 30 minutes depending if it stops at Sabine Hut. Being Summer, the water taxi did make a stop here to drop a number of people off heading up to Blue Lake Hut. It's only another 5 minutes by boat to the D'Urville Hut jetty.
From D'Urville Hut, we follow the main track to the Tiraumea Track junction and turned off. The track is will maintained and marked staying mostly in the bush. By the time we came to the open tussock clearings, it was getting late in the day and dusk was starting to set in.
Day 2 - Tiraumea Hut to Mole Hut via Mole Saddle
Morning dawned a little misty, but we knew we were in for a mostly fine day, with light drizzle due in the late afternoon to early evening. The track to Mole Hut heads away from behind Tiraumea Hut, a brief climb almost straight away, with commanding views over the hut we had just left behind.
The majority of this track is in the bush, and generally heads up hill. Eventually we break through the bush and out on to open tops, heading towards Mole Saddle. Our original plan was to head over the Mole Tops, but as the weather had clagged in with thick mist falling we opted for plan B the following day.
Mole Hut is set in a tussock clearing, with trees and a creek on the bottom side, which is where you need to get your water from. Inside it is a cozy four bunker, and we were very fortunate to be the only people in the hut this night. It rained all night, which made heading off to the long drop a bit unpleasant.
Day 3 - Mole Hut to Downie Hut via Mole Stream, Mole Road and Lower Matakitaki Route
By far this was the longest, dreariest, mentally toughest day of the trip. Overnight it had rained constantly and by morning it had eased slightly, and continued on for the majority of the day only easing when we were in sight of Downie Hut. We knew this rain was in the forecast and had planned for it. This was the one day that we were happy to have the rain as it meant that we would get the good weather later on for going over David Saddle.
Once packed up and ready to leave, donned head to toe in wet weather gear, it was a miserable sight and we knew it was going to be a long, mentally challenging day. While the terrain was easy and straightforward, the prospect of having to walk 29 kilometers in the rain and with still heavy packs was better forgotten.
We departed the hut and followed the well marked track down Mole Stream, eventually reaching Mole Road after about 4 hours. Mole Road is unsealed and as it is a dead end road does not see much traffic. It is 3 kilometers to get to the end of this road, passing by dairy farms to the start of the Lower Matakitaki Route. We never planned to hitchhike as it was only a short distance, just as well as we never did encounter a vehicle along the way.
The Lower Matakitaki Route follows and easement through a dairy farm, along a farm 4WD track. Once this ends, its along an old 4WD track, which though well marked has little to distract the mind. There were a few sections that required a short scrambles and scrub bashing due to old slips. Eventually the bush opens out into wide tussock flats and Downie Hut. This is an old cullers hut that oozes character.
Day 4 - Downie Hut to East Matakitaki Hut via Matakitaki Forks Route and East Matakitaki Route
With morning came the usual routine, breakfast, sorting, packing, sweeping and tidying. The track sign just outside the hut door indicated a relatively short day and we were looking forward to it. Having studied the topo map and other trip reports, we were anticipating a relatively uneventful track that follows the river, a couple of brief climbs and a 3-wire bridge.
This was to be my first time on a 3-wire bridge, and with a bit of nervous apprehension I was looking forward to it. After all, on my bucket list is the Dusky Track, I think there is somewhere in the vicinity of 22 3-wire bridges on this track.
Along the way there were many discussions on the best technique to use, I opted to use the pigeon toed method.
And here it was, right in front of me and I can't say that I was happy. It was higher off the river than I was expecting, not to mention the river was quite deep and had a decent flow to it. With my poles safely put into my pack, gloves on my hands to protect from the wire, I headed off. On the bridge I just had to keep talking to myself and repeating "don't look down", "look where you are going", "if you fall you will get wet and probably drown".
Phew....made it!
The rest of the track to Matakitaki Hut was through bush, muddy in places. Eventually reaching the hut, again in a open tussock clearing right next to the river for water.
Day 5 - Matakitaki Hut to Upper D'Urville Hut via Matakitaki River East Branch and David Saddle
The previous night in the hut was spent reading the hut book and track information for heading up river and tackling David Saddle.
This section is only marked in places and not all the way up river, and you need to keep crossing the river many times before you can see the route up to David Saddle, we didn't rely only the markers.
Once we reached the point where we were to leave the river and head up to the saddle, we stopped for a well earned lunch and an opportunity to wring out wet socks and boots.
Full with lunch, we began the climb. While quite steep, and tussock covered, it is straightforward as you are looking up at the saddle the whole way.
From the top of the saddle, there are commanding views all round. Looking the whole way down the Matakitaki River East Branch, and then west to the Upper D'Urville River. From here the track notes are fairly vague and we were slowed up trying to decide on the correct tussock basin and where the start of the bush track would be. Eventually one of us spotted the large orange triangle marker indicating where the track enters the bush. From here it is a very steep decent down to the Upper D'Urville River.
Our plan for this day was that we would be able to make it all the way to George Lyon Hut for the night. Unfortunately slow progress heading up from Matakitaki Hut and down David Saddle, along with some storm damage on the track had us reaching Upper D'Urville Hut on dusk.
"Hut" is a bit of an overstatement, and it really should be called a "Bivvy". Two short bunks, a small bench and no long drop. So with four of us, we had a very cosy night.
Day 6 - Upper D'Urville Hut to Morgan Hut via Upper D'Urville Route and George Lyon Hut
I would love to say that I had a great night sleep due to the long day before, I can't! It was a very cramped and uncomfortable night, so when the day dawned and it was light enough to depart we were off.
We were aiming for George Lyon Hut for lunch and Morgan Hut for the night. The Upper D'Urville Track all the way down to the junction for the Moss Pass Route had quite a bit of storm damage which did make for more slow progress.
We did have lunch as planned, and took our time, again taking the opportunity to dry socks and boots in the warm sun.
Heading on down to Morgan Hut, the track is well formed, easily graded which made for quick progress. Morgan Hut is a relatively new hut, which made for a bit of luxury from the previous 5 nights.
Day 7 - Morgan Hut to D'Urville Hut
Our final day, saw us having an early start as the plan was to reach D'Urville Hut and radio through to the water taxi for a pick up, and drive back to Ashburton.
This section of track is much the same as the day before, well formed and easily graded. We made good time to D'Urville Hut, but still had to wait until 2pm for the water taxi to pick us up.
It was a great trip getting deeper into Nelson Lakes National Park and ticking off more huts. I even think I might be ready to tackle all those 3-wire bridges on the Dusky Track.
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