Lewis Pass Tops

After an uncharacteristically last minute organisation, a wild Waitangi weekend was had on the Lewis Pass Tops. By last minute, I mean we planned it on Thursday and left Ashburton after work on Friday heading for Hanmer Springs for the night. With spirits high and eager anticipation for the trip ahead, we arrived in Hanmer about 8pm and set about repacking and getting the final few supplies.

Saturday morning we headed away just before 8am as we wanted to be walking by 9am. We arrived at the Lewis Pass car park shortly before 9am and set about readying ourselves for what we knew was going to be a steep 1.5 hours ahead to get to the bush line.

The Lewis Pass Tops Track begins a short distance away and on the other side of the busy main road, but is well marked. Climbing through beech forest, with intermittent glimpses and sounds of the road below we wound our way steadily up hill enjoying a well earned morning tea rest as a lovely basin about 20 minutes below the bush line. The bush line is well defined, it literally just stops and is marked by a large orange triangle. From here snow poles mark the route and well worn track as it continues to climb up and follow the ridgeline.

The views along the ridge are expansive, and with such a stunning day, with clear skies and warming sunshine it was easy to stop often and take in the sights. To our right was Mt Mueller rising high into the sky with the busy highway, while to our left the Libretto Range stretched out towards the horizon.

We made good time cruising easily over the numerous tops and tarns that make up the range. Eventually we reached Pt 1,580 where we surveyed the situation. Ahead of us was a 150 metre descent followed by a 200 metre ascent, so we decided to refuel with lunch before continuing on. From our vantage point we enjoyed commanding views of The Apprentice at 1,678 metres, Lucretia at 1,643 metres and Mt Technical at 1870 metres. Finally rested and full we continued on, both descent and ascent were not as bad as they had appeared and as we crested the ridge below The Apprentice the view of Lucretia Tarns was impressive.

We sidled high about the tarn, aiming for the ridgeline the runs up and over Lucretia, the plan for the day was to make it all the way to Brass Monkey Bivvy for the night. Unfortunately, with last minute planning often comes the need to be flexible to changing plans. We had summitted Lucretia and had stayed high along the narrow, exposed ridgeline to Pt 1,605. Here we appeared to have become bluffed, we could see the saddle 150 metres below that we needed to be on in order to climb the final peak that then drops down to the bivvy. We sat, rested, discussed options and formulated a new plan. We would head back to Lucretia Tarns and set up camp for the night, the following day we would plan our second and hopefully final attempt on the bivvy.

Lucretia Tarns is an incredible place to camp, the upper tarn is well sheltered and offers numerous flat spots for tenting and large boulders for resting upon on a long warm summers evening. The night was warm and pleasant and by morning we were refreshed and energised to get to the bivvy.

The going was much easier with light packs and we made excellent time up and over Lucretia, headed down to boulder fields that we had missed the night before, on to the saddle and taking on the final climb to Pt 1,602. From here it is a broad benched descent down to Brass Monkey Bivvy at Pt 1,360, sitting in a lovely tussock and tarn filled basin.

We returned the same way, and packed up camp after having an early lunch. Our destination for that day was to camp at the Lewis Tops Tarns. Once we reached the largest of the tarns, we selected the perfect spot and set up camp. The weather had begun to turn and the forecasted wind was becoming noticeable. We enjoyed lazing in the sun and dinner, but when the sun dipped below the ridge we made a hasty retreat into the tent.

By morning mist was rolling in and out of the tarn restricting our views. Fortunately we were back on the well trodden path, so navigation and route finding was not going to be an issue. By the time we were looking down onto the bush line the cloud had gone, the views had returned and the day had warmed considerably.

The bush, car and home beckoned and so down we went making good time and few stops.