"What we plan for ourselves isn't always what life has planned for us"
2022 was a year of ups and downs, twists and turns and by the end everything I had planned was turned completely on it's head.
- Plan A - we were going to spend 2 months walking the South Island section of Te Araroa (life had me made redundant in January and my new job wouldn't give me the time off)
- Revised Plan A - we were going to take 10 days and walk the Richmond Ranges Section of Te Araroa (life gave us an unexpected knee injury that meant we couldn't carry on)
- The actual Plan A - we walked the Pelorus River Track from the start of the track to the Hacket Picnic Area (life provided an opportunity to leave the trail early)
And this is where the journey begins.......
Day 1 - Road End to Captains Creek Hut
8.5 km
4 hours
1 swingbridge
Our actual starting point was St Arnaud, having driven there the day before from Ashburton. We had booked a shuttle that left at 10.30am taking us north towards Nelson, after a quick vehicle and driver change in Stoke we were winding our way towards Pelorus Bridge and the start of what was to be an amazing adventure through the Richmond Ranges.
It was a long, hot 2.5 hour drive to the start of the track, with the last 14km on a winding gravel road. When I say hot, it was ridiculous, the vehicle had no working AC and the temperature in the car must have easily been pushing 30 degrees.
Anyway, the sun was shining and we were beyond excited. When we finally arrived at the end of the road the car park was full, our driver said most of these people would have been at the Emerald Pools on such a day. We geared up, laced our boots and hit the trail.
Almost immediately we were wandering beside the emerald green waters of the Pelorus River under the cover of the bush which kept the heat of the day and sunshine at bay. There were numerous swimming holes in the river below and we were keen to reach the Emerald Pools to cool off and refresh.
Emerald Pools is reached after 1 hour of walking, there is a clearing with a decent camping spot and a quick trail down to the river. We spent about 20 minutes here cooling our bodies and enjoying a brief moment without the burden of a heavy pack.
As all good things must come to an end, we heaved our packs on once again and continued on to our destination for the day.
After the Emerald Pools, the track heads inland and climbs over a section of river gorge before dropping down to Captains Creek Hut and the Pelorus River.
The hut is set in a large clearing on a terrace above the river, when we arrived the hut was occupied by a family of 4 plus 3 tents already pitched. Later that evening a further 3 tents were pitched. We enjoyed an afternoon of swimming in the river and being eaten by sandflies.
Day 2 - Captains Creek Hut to Rocks Hut
10 km
6 hours
4 swingbridges
We were packed up and heading away by 7.20am, the plan was to take our time and hopefully we wouldn't be doing the climb up to Rocks Hut in the heat of the day.
As we departed Captians Creek Hut the undulating track was once again enveloped by the bush as it followed the Pelorus River. We passed numerous pig rooting sign, and encountered narrow edges with steep drop offs. After two hours we arrived at Middy Hut where we decided to have an extended morning tea break to refuel before the big climb up to Rocks Hut.
Middy Hut is located in a lovely grassy clearing, just above the Pelorus River, previous hunters had left goat skulls on and around the track sign.
Rested and refueled we hoisted our heavy packs on to our backs and carried on, about 5 minutes beyond the hut we encountered a long swingbridge over the Pelorus River, the approach was quite narrow and rocky, it had the potential to be quite treacherous when wet. Safely on the other side, with the temperature rising and mugginess growing, the real work of the day began. From Middy Hut to Rocks Hut it is a 650 metre climb with some of the sections being steep, we were relived each time the track leveled out and we could catch our breath. About halfway into the climb the track emerges briefly from the bush to an open rocky area that provides a great panoramic view in to the Richmond Ranges. With 15 minutes to go until our day was done we crossed a small stream which quenched our thirst and cooled our heads.
Then all of a sudden the track emerges on to the tops directly at Rocks Hut, it has a stunning location with grand views, ample tents sites and two flushing toilets.
From the hut there is a side track that takes 15 minutes to reach a higher elevation and view over the surrounding hills and valleys.
We enjoyed our afternoon here, lazing in the sun and playing endless games of battleships.
Day 3 - Rocks Hut to Hacket Hut
15.7 km
9 hours
Another early start had us on the trail at 7.15am, the track ahead followed the undulating ridgeline before the descent down to Totara Saddle and Browning Hut below, we were looking forward to being in the bush again out of the heat of the day.
The ridgeline section was great, especially after the steep climb the day before, we enjoyed the freedom the undulating terrain gave us and surprisingly the packs didn't feel so cumbersome.
Halfway along this section we rounded a corner and came out to a relatively open area with grand views towards the surrounding hills. Evidence of previous storms surrounded us, with dead standing trees, tree fall and sections of overgrown ferns. Our pace slowed through here as we marveled at the awesome power of Mother Nature and the size of the trees that she had felled.
Beyond here the descent began with some steep sections requiring extra care. As the trail levelled again we popped out of the bush into the tussock tops of Totara Saddle. A strip of relatively barren landscape often referred to as the mineral belt that runs through the Richmond Ranges with tussock, red rocks and turpentine spreading out. There were outstanding views towards Nelson below and further west to Golden Bay.
Back into the bush again to enjoy an escape from the burning sun, we continued down towards Browning Hut. Recent heavy rain events in the area had carved their mark as we followed Browning Stream with one large wash out in particular having us scrambling down one side and back up the other to rejoin the track.
When we reached Browning Hut we decided to have a nice long afternoon rest soaking out feet in the stream and enjoying the coolness under the trees. The hut itself has a great location basking in full sunshine, there was plenty of area around the hut for tents.
Boots laced and packs on we continued on, enjoying the final two hours stretch to Hacket Hut. More descending as the trail continued to follow the stream, and yet more wash outs and slips to navigate with one in particular causing us to change our plans.
Hacket Hut appeared in to view in a large grassy area right next to the river, as we were the only people at the hut we decided to take bunks in the hut rather than pitching the tent. After getting settled we headed down to the river to enjoy the coolness of the water while we washed and swam.
Our day finished knowing we had some big decisions to make in the morning.
Day 4 - Hacket Hut to Hacket Picnic Area
5.7 km
2 hours
Our final early start, after the difficult decision was made to not carry on and head out to the Hacket Picnic Area. We were away at 7am anticipating a slow trip to the car park followed by a 12 km road walk in to Richmond.
We crossed the bridge, said our farewell to the Richmond Ranges vowing to be back to continue, and headed on the trail out.
This section is mixed use designed for both trampers and mountain bikers, it was wide and well graded, with only one steep section about 10 minutes below the hut.
Where the trail joined Hacket Creek we were out in the open enjoying the full sun of the day, crossing a few small slips and eventually reaching the picnic area.
On the final walk out I had the opportunity to reflect on the journey we had, I never once considered it to be a failed trip but an opportunity to complete a track in an area that I had never explored before.
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