Styx River and Arahura River Circuit - West Coast, New Zealand

Embark on this classic multi-day hiking adventure on New Zealand's West Coast, traversing two historic pack tracks through the breathtaking Styx River and Arahura River valleys.

The Styx River track is rumored to have suffered significant damage from vicious storms in 2019, DOC (Department of Conservation) advises to now cross to the true left and pick up the marked track that continues up this side, this was originally a predator trap line that has been cut and maintained to form the new Styx River Track. Additional information also suggests going via Mid Styx Hut, if the river is low you can continue up the true left (bypassing Mid Styx) crossing near the gorge just above Tyndall Creek.

Because this was a hut bagging trip as well, we opted to follow the track past Mid Styx to Grassy Flat Hut.

Road end to Grassy Flat Hut via Mid Styx Hut

The track up the Styx River starts by following an old farm 4WD track, after about 20 minutes it blends into river flats where the track meets the once forested faces, the storm damage is incredibly obvious here with massive slips from high above to the river below.

At this point, an obvious large orange triangle marker is visible on the true left of the Styx River indicating the start of this next section of track. We crossed here, where the river was wide and low, travel up valley was easy going with the track meandering between beech forest and open river terraces, at a couple of places the tussock was high and markers sparse at best. So long as you are still heading up valley a ground trail or distant marker can picked up with relative ease.

Eventually the track meets the outlet of Tyndall Creek, here there is a sign that points towards Mid Styx Hut, it also indicates the low river level track, straight ahead, that can be taken as another option to reach Grassy Flat, it does require a couple of crossings of the Styx River near the gorge section.

Heading up Tyndall Creek the track is well marked, and easy to follow, there are some steep sections with the steepest climb, aided by a well-used rope, where the track leaves the creek to reach a forested terrace, once at the top of this terrace it is only about 30 minutes to reach Mid Styx Hut where we stopped for a short break before continuing on.

We followed the track as it continued along the forested terrace for about 30 minutes then dropped steeply before rejoining the Styx River.

We could clearly see the large orange triangle on the true right of the river, finding a suitable crossing point that was about mid-thigh then a short scramble up the bank to the old sign “Mid Styx/Grassy Flat, and we finally rejoined the historic Styx pack track.

This section of track is in great condition as it undulates beside the river until crossing to reach the bottom end of Grassy Flat.

There were varying reports of times to reach Mid Styx Hut from the road end, it took us 4 hours. And equally varying times from Mid Styx to Grassy Flat Hut, this section took 2.5 hours.

(If I were to return up the Styx River, so long at the weather was good and the river low, I wouldn’t bother going via Mid Styx Hut, I understand that continuing up the true right of the Styx River takes anywhere from 3 to 5 hours to reach Grassy Flat Hut from the road end)

Grassy Flat Hut to Mudflats Hut via Styx Saddle

After our long day yesterday of a 4-hour drive followed 6.5 hours hiking, we had a late start knowing this would be our shortest day given there was to be heavy showers in the afternoon and the plan was to be at Mudflats Hut before the rain started.

We headed away just after 7.30am and immediately got wet feet with the crossing of the Styx River. It was great to be on the old Styx Pack Track, meandering beside the river through lush West Coast rain forest. After about 30 minutes we began the climb towards Styx Saddle, there was only one short section of track that had suffered storm damage, it was easy enough to carefully skirt around the side, a few more rain events will push this piece of track into the forest.

As we climbed towards the saddle the forest gave way to the upper basin filled with alpine scrub and tussock. The saddle is broad and the tussock above head height which made finding the markers slightly challenging. It doesn’t take long to cross the saddle and drop down to the junction with the Arahura Valley track where we stopped for a short break, we took 1 hour 45 minutes to reach the junction from Grassy Flat Hut and the sign told us it would be 2 hours to reach Mudflats Hut.

The Arahura Valley track is a continuation of the historic pack track that travels down the Arahura River until it reaches the Cesspool. We sidled above the river below on the well graded, benched track and navigated a handful of side creeks and streams that had suffered blow outs from numerous wild West Coast storms.

As we travelled down the valley, we stopped to look behind us to take in the views towards Harman Hut and Browning Pass, to our right we could look down the length of the Campbell Range and passed the sign to Campbell Biv, this could easily be another trip to add to the ever growing list.

We started our descent from our high sidle down to the Arahura River near Snowball Creek, we could then see Mudflats Hut on a terrace above the true right of the river. We reached the swing bridge and crossed to the tussock flats, and were then greeted by a short, steep climb to finally arrive at Mudflats Hut perched on the terrace with its commanding valley views.

It had taken 4 hours from Grassy Flat Hut to reach Mudflats Hut, arriving at 11.45am. We enjoyed an early lunch and restful afternoon; the heavy showers came as forecast at 1pm. Our only interruption was a cheeky family of 4 young Kea who perched themselves in the trees next to the hut and proceeded to have a loud conversation until boredom set in and they ventured on.

Mudflats Hut to Lower Arahura Hut with a side trip to Newton Creek Hut

An early start was the order for the day, knowing we were going to be doing a side trip to bag Newton Creek Hut on our way to Lower Arahura Hut, we were out the door just after 7am and taking that short steep track down from our lofty terrace to cross over the Arahuru River and continue on down valley. Across the river we were straight into a decent climb up an unnamed side creek so that we could reach the benched pack track sidling above the Arahura River and Third Gorge.

After 1 hour and 20 minutes we reached the signed junction to Newton Creek Hut and dropped out packs, opting to go fast and light with snacks and water for our side trip.

Newton Creek Hut

From the Arahura junction sign the track drops steeply down to reach Newton Creek swing bridge spanning the Arahura River, it is then a brief scramble down to river level, the track then follow the bouldery edge of the Arahura River before heading into the bush at the marked entry point just down river from an unnamed side creek.

Although well marked and maintained, it is a steep climb to get to point 751, then the sidle begins where the track joins Newton Creek and the hut a short distance further on.

Newton Creek Hut sits in a generous sun filled clearing and was extensively renovated by the Backcountry Trust in 2017 with the interior looking fresh and new.

Upon returning to the track junction, we continued towards Lower Arahura Hut with the pack track remaining on its high sidle above the Arahura River. Eventually the track broke out of the bush at a large unnamed side stream where we dropped down steeply though this vast boulder strewn stream to get every closer to the Arahura River.

When the decent levelled out we meandered along about 50 metres above the river, passing the signed junction for Olderog Biv, and just like that we were at Lower Arahura Hut.

This hut sits in a large clearing, with remains of an old hut nearby, fantastic views to the Arahura River below the clearing, and across to the faces of the McArthur Range.

It had taken us 7 hours and 15 minutes to reach Lower Arahura Hut from Mudflats Hut, this included our 3 hour return side trip to Newton Creek Hut.

Lower Arahura Hut to road end

We had a pick up arranged from the road end back to Lake Kaniere where we had left the vehicle, we were allowing 3 to 4 hours to reach the road so left the hut early at 7.15am.

This section of track is straightforward and easy going, meandering along near the Arahura River. Given this sections broadness and low level there is little storm damage, and it’s easy to see why this has sometimes been the preferred exit from the Three Passes Route.

Travel was quick, taking just over 2 hours to reach The Cesspool, taking our time crossing the narrow bridge spanning the gorge and immersing ourselves in the strikingly vibrant, turquoise blue waters surging below. The Cesspool is often described as a rival to the Hokitika Gorge to those who know about it, and I can certainly see why.

We quickly emerged into the real-world reality of a farm 4WD track, following this to climb a low terrace above the river, before returning to river level and briefly connecting with the West Coast Wilderness Cycle Trail, then finally arriving at Milltown Road and the end of our adventure.